My hesitation in going to Zim a
second time in one year was more to do
with the fact that our visits there seemed to be of a “hit & run” nature
where the program is so jam packed you hardly have a moment to breathe! When I
was there this past January we spent 8 out of 9 days in the car, and I was the
designated driver; hardly the kind of stuff to look forward to when you need to
just relax, and generally zone-out. But
having agreed to go, I prayed that I would be able to relax, and enjoy being
there. God is faithful. Being in Zim was EXACTLY what I needed. It was Awesome!
We left Zimbabwe when I was 11yrs
old, a lifetime ago it seems. For the longest time, (some 5 or 6 yrs) I used to
resent my parents for tearing me away from friends, and not being close enough
to enjoy the “life” that many of them seemed to be enjoying. It was only when I
was in Matric that I began to embrace the decision my parents had made for our
family by moving to Swaziland. Though I have been out of Zim for almost
20years, it truly holds a special place in my heart. I used to remember crying
real tears every time we’d leave to come back to Swaziland after a Christmas holiday
(or something) and thinking “it’s not fair”.
Anyone who is from Zim (and visits regularly) will tell you that many
things have changed since 2000 and some of the change is heart breaking. What I
found encouraging on this visit was that although there is plenty of evidence
of the devastation caused by the economic meltdown (most evident in the
agricultural sector); there is also a very tangible spirit of resilience and
determination among the populace.
My trip this time allowed me to
see parts of Zim that I have never seen before. My mom remembered that you can
drive directly from Chivhu to Rusape (where my granny lives) via Murmabinda,
and come out in Nyazura, the former Tobacco-rich farming community close to
Rusape. It’s amazing that on this rather long stretch of road (250kms) time
seemed to have stood still. There were vast expanses of land stretching as far
as the eye could see. The eerie granite outcrops and kopjies were magnificent.
As we were driving my mom was telling me that this area of Zim is rich in
natural minerals and precious stones (including diamonds). The road was in
excellent condition (mainly because there’s not much heavy traffic), one of the
last infrastructure projects of the late 90’s before things went pear-shaped.
One of my great-uncles actually worked on the road during the construction of
the 12 major bridges which traverse major rivers like the Rusape; Odzi and
Save. It was truly refreshing to be in different scenery (as opposed to the
usual Harare/Beitbridge road) and a great opportunity to gain a history lesson.
The vastness and beauty of Zimbabwe was evident all around me. (see map: https://maps.google.co.za/maps?hl=en&tab=wl )
One of the trips I took alone was
to Chinhoyi, west of Harare to visit my Uncle and Aunt who I had last seen back
in 2007 during a family reunion function. This was going to be an adventure as I
was going to be confronted with the public transport system in Zim. My cousin
had warned me that the best thing to do was get a kombi from town (Harare
downtown), as I would be guaranteed transport. Instead I decided to chance it
and wait at a busy “bus-stop” on Lomagundi road near Westgate shopping centre. My
parents’ home is in that part of Harare so it made sense. I had to learn
quickly that transport in Zim is a novelty. The bus-stop was full, and all the kombis
which were coming by were full. It became apparent that that the thing to do
was stop a “lift” and hitch a ride with complete strangers or else be one of 8
or 9 passengers hitching a ride in a “gonyet” (18 Wheeler Long Distance truck).
Neither of the options particularly appealed to me, so I decided to be patient
and wait for kombi, all the while silently praying that one would come along.
Eventually after more than an hour my prayers were answered, and I was on my
way. The last time I had been on this stretch of road was when we were
returning from a family trip to Kariba back in ’96. My memory was of many
farms, flourishing with maize crops, and cattle. 16 yrs later, the scenery
revealed something bleaker; vast tracts of once productive land lying fallow;
farming compounds long-deserted. I later found out that the few farms which are
operational in that area either belong to really powerful politicians or were
hawked off to the Chinese. I have to admit that this trip did evoke a sense of sadness
and despair of what has been lost in the last 12 or so years.
Back in Harare after a few days
out of town, I was able to make contact with some old friends from my
University days, one of whom I had last seen in 2007. These phenomenal young
women are both entrepreneurs, tenaciously pursuing their dreams of a new and better
Zimbabwe. Spending time in Harare (barring the power-cuts, water interruptions,
lack of streetlights and potholed roads) you really get the sense of a
progressive African metropolis. I spent some time right in the heart of Harare
and the energy there is contagious. It seems everyone is busy doing something.
Zimbabweans are resourceful, enterprising people and there’s no other place
where this is more evident than in Harare. I used to go for early morning jogs
in our neighbourhood and I marvelled at the degree of new developments coming
up (commercial; residential). The city is alive with activity. Both of the
friends who I visited shared the same sentiment that this where they believe
that their dreams will materialise. Having lived and studied outside the
country both returned to start building their business empires. One owns a
successful chain of pre-schools which is now growing into a primary
school. The other is partners with her
mom in the retail of sportswear and gear, the go-to-people regarding anything
to do with sports. I was privileged to be in their company, and gain insight
into a different (more affluent) aspect of life in Zimbabwe. The lesson I
gained was that the general sentiment is “let’s get on with the business of
living”. We enjoyed a jazz concert featuring Ladysmith Black Mambazo; nights
out at the latest eateries; enjoying an intimate dinner-party at home.
When it came time to leave, I
genuinely felt that the time had been too short! I could have enjoyed another
week or two. I enjoyed reconnecting with people, and just being in Zim:
drinking copious amounts of “Cherry Plum” and Mazoe Orange, savouring a “Green
Giant” Ice Cream; eating maputi (my cousin and i
scored a whole bale of the road which was still intact) and indulging in many other simple pleasures that
evoked the Zimbabwe of my childhood. The Zimbabwe that is so intrinsically knit
within my being, the one i carry in my heart. When I returned to Swaziland, I realised that
my break was exactly what I needed, a total refreshing of mind, body and soul.
I’ve already lined up my next
visit for March 2013 – can’t wait
